Lest We Forget

Sunday 12^th February, 2017.

We’re running a good half day behind now, due to the roadwork on the way to Pemberton. So this morning, instead of leaving early to take a leisurely drive up to Dunsborough, we have some catching up to do. Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse is a must do on our list and we head there via the waterfront because today we actually have a bit of sunshine for better photos. We arrive in time for the 11am tour and fill in 20 minutes or so wandering around and listening to the audio guide included with the entry fee. The climb to the top with guide April, is done in 2 stages, just as well, as she sets a cracking pace! I can’t believe that the light keepers carried up 32 litres/kilos up the stairs every morning with kero for the light, and then crank a handle to lift over 100kgs in the weights that slowly lower over 24 hours to keep the light turning. 

Cars are driving up to the lighthouse after our tour finishes, and we are left wondering what’s going on. Turns out that it’s the anniversary of a Naval tragedy off the coast here, so there is a commemoration service for the 10 victims and for all servicemen lost at sea. On Feb 11, 1945, the HMAS Nizam, an N class destroyer, was sailing from Melbourne to Fremantle when, 12 miles off Cape Leeuwin she was hit by a freak wave, in near gale force wind, rolled heavily 75 to 80 degrees to port and 10 ratings were lost overboard. They were apparently on deck late at night due to feeling sea-sick. The ship circled for some time but being dark, no survivors were found. We spoke to one of the women walking up to the lighthouse where there is a naval memorial and she told us the whole service is usually held on site, but this year due to the frailty of the few surviving servicemen, the main commemoration was held in town with only the wreath laying held at the lighthouse. The man working behind the desk when we returned our audio guides told us most of the story.

We grabbed a quick bite in town before making for Hamelin Bay to see if the stingrays were in the shallows. They were and we spent more time there than planned, walking up onto the lookout as well. The rays were swimming near the boat ramp and some people were wading in the water, patting them at times. Many girls ran up the beach squealing, then ran back down into the water. The stingrays were an amazing sight to see and I wish we could have stayed longer, but by now, we were running behind again. I had told our Air bnb hosts we’d arrive around 4 but I had to let them know it would be more like 4.30, which wasn’t too bad. We had to skip a few things and if we have time we’ll go back, it’s not far, only about half an hour.

After we got our bags out of the car and got settled, we went for a drive up to Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse for a sneak peek, but the rain came so we couldn’t get out of the car. Also checked out Sugarloaf Rock as it’s on the same road, quite impressive, but again – rain.

The accommodation is very nice and it’s a short walk to the town centre, but the rain has returned so we have to drive to the tavern for dinner. Crumbed Fremantle sardines, spicy coated WA prawns and a big bowl of apple coleslaw, shared.